The Workshops
- Thread starter 8BitCosmonaut
- Start date
Funny thing that this picture reminds me of, back in my final year of college, my friend and I actually proposed to build a 20mm bolt action rifle that fires a sabot round which encased a 5mm stainless steel dart. The barrel was planned to be ordered from a local steelworks, the trunnion & bolt & trigger group was to be build in the college workshop, including the custom built 20mm round.
Reason we planned to use a smoothbore and sabot configuration: we don't have the manufacturing capability to produce rifling. Otherwise we would've went with a solid slug. Now with hindsight, we could've used a driving band instead.
Purpose of it was to test a whittle shield we've designed to protect satellites from orbital debris, the actual reason was because we had no idea how to use CFD software.
Upon presenting this idea to our professor, to our disappointment, she was horrified. Reminding us that building any form of firearm is extremely illegal in this country.
This was one of the reasons why we were never able to complete our competition project, and we had to drop out.
This island is too small for the two of us, sadly my friend and I fell out. My last friend, because there will never ever be another person like him.
While everyone else are playing outside, he made plastic explosives out of clay and RDX, even convinced his teacher that it was homemade playdough.
Even made his own rocket stove to recycle aluminium.
Never got to say goodbye to him properly.
Reason we planned to use a smoothbore and sabot configuration: we don't have the manufacturing capability to produce rifling. Otherwise we would've went with a solid slug. Now with hindsight, we could've used a driving band instead.
Purpose of it was to test a whittle shield we've designed to protect satellites from orbital debris, the actual reason was because we had no idea how to use CFD software.
Upon presenting this idea to our professor, to our disappointment, she was horrified. Reminding us that building any form of firearm is extremely illegal in this country.
This was one of the reasons why we were never able to complete our competition project, and we had to drop out.
This island is too small for the two of us, sadly my friend and I fell out. My last friend, because there will never ever be another person like him.
While everyone else are playing outside, he made plastic explosives out of clay and RDX, even convinced his teacher that it was homemade playdough.
Even made his own rocket stove to recycle aluminium.
Never got to say goodbye to him properly.
Damn this looks really cool!
I've tried making something of my own the last few days, some AR mags with fancy hexagon grove on them. I wanted something that looks sci-fi and futuristic but I can't make anything that looks good beside slapping some shapes onto it. Still kinda proud of it lol
And I’ve finished my own PMAG Gen 3 with the marking grid
Ngl cutting the grid took forever. It took something like 2 hours for both sides
I've tried making something of my own the last few days, some AR mags with fancy hexagon grove on them. I wanted something that looks sci-fi and futuristic but I can't make anything that looks good beside slapping some shapes onto it. Still kinda proud of it lol
And I’ve finished my own PMAG Gen 3 with the marking grid
Ngl cutting the grid took forever. It took something like 2 hours for both sides
Ah, I'm actually more of into the old Cold War era weapons look and design. Cuz they look hefty and beefy, especially the G3.
Hey I'm curious to how your model guns are made, I guess that you make the 3D models, turn them into 2D plans, print them out at 1:1 scale, glue it to a piece of wood, then cutting out the shape?
Hey I'm curious to how your model guns are made, I guess that you make the 3D models, turn them into 2D plans, print them out at 1:1 scale, glue it to a piece of wood, then cutting out the shape?
Kinda. I would make a 3d model of the thing I'm making in SketchUp. Instead of 1 solid block, I usually made it into different parts floating around to put together in the real world
After that, I export it as a .3ds file and put it in Pepakura designer to make the 2d template of it.
After editing it, save it as a .pdf file and print it on cardstock. Most of them are on A4, but some parts are too big for an A4 and for some reason I can't cut them in half (laziness lol), I would make it A3 instead. 180g/m2 is the best paper type to work with, but I'm currently working with 200g/m2 paper since I only found them, which made fitting some parts difficult, but that's it.
There are many ways of making the paper parts stronger, the easiest is to glue another layer. But sometimes, a bit (too much) super glue will do the job as well, I only use another layer when making big flat parts like the lower receiver of the AR-15, magazines and structural parts.
Then bring the finished thing and paint it. Most of the time, the ink of the printer if good enough, but if I wanted it to look better, I would some spray paint, especially flat paint, it really help making it look like cerakote.
For parts that are boring to make like pic rails, I just 3d print them
After that, I export it as a .3ds file and put it in Pepakura designer to make the 2d template of it.
After editing it, save it as a .pdf file and print it on cardstock. Most of them are on A4, but some parts are too big for an A4 and for some reason I can't cut them in half (laziness lol), I would make it A3 instead. 180g/m2 is the best paper type to work with, but I'm currently working with 200g/m2 paper since I only found them, which made fitting some parts difficult, but that's it.
There are many ways of making the paper parts stronger, the easiest is to glue another layer. But sometimes, a bit (too much) super glue will do the job as well, I only use another layer when making big flat parts like the lower receiver of the AR-15, magazines and structural parts.
Then bring the finished thing and paint it. Most of the time, the ink of the printer if good enough, but if I wanted it to look better, I would some spray paint, especially flat paint, it really help making it look like cerakote.
For parts that are boring to make like pic rails, I just 3d print them
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Horus Lupercal
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Deja Vu
Biker Mice from Mars
ET phone home
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Getting it apart is easy. Take the 2 pins out next to the butt, pull the butt off. Cock the weapon and the bolt carrier assembly will fall out the back into your hands. The bolt itself is where the problem lies.
Now, with the G3s smaller brother, the MP5, the bolt is quite small cos it only fires a pistol 9mm round. The G3 fires big boy 7.62, and as such whilst it is about 90% identical to the MP5, there are a few extra features added to keep the bolt locked in place when the round is fired and here is where the fun starts.
When you assemble your rifle, the bolt is designed to move freely inside it, and you can check that by giving it a shake. With the G3, that is not the case, and there is a claw arm installed. Now if the bolt itself moves backwards in the carrier, a set of delay rollers pop out and the claw arm locks onto the bolt, stopping it moving forwards. And the only way to unlock the bastarding thing is trying to push the claw out at the pivot point where the cocking handle hinges in (in the picture, you'll see the handle on the barrel folded flat. You have to pivot it back 90 degrees before you can pull it back to chamber a round) using pliers and a lot of swearing.
And because the rollers are out, you can't get it into the weapon until you unlock it.
I found this out the hard way. I was very familiar with the MP5, knew the G3 was functionally extremely similar and took it apart thinking it'd be an easy job to get it together again. An hour and a leatherman later, I finally got the fucking bolt in the right place so I could re-assemble the weapon.
Now, with the G3s smaller brother, the MP5, the bolt is quite small cos it only fires a pistol 9mm round. The G3 fires big boy 7.62, and as such whilst it is about 90% identical to the MP5, there are a few extra features added to keep the bolt locked in place when the round is fired and here is where the fun starts.
When you assemble your rifle, the bolt is designed to move freely inside it, and you can check that by giving it a shake. With the G3, that is not the case, and there is a claw arm installed. Now if the bolt itself moves backwards in the carrier, a set of delay rollers pop out and the claw arm locks onto the bolt, stopping it moving forwards. And the only way to unlock the bastarding thing is trying to push the claw out at the pivot point where the cocking handle hinges in (in the picture, you'll see the handle on the barrel folded flat. You have to pivot it back 90 degrees before you can pull it back to chamber a round) using pliers and a lot of swearing.
And because the rollers are out, you can't get it into the weapon until you unlock it.
I found this out the hard way. I was very familiar with the MP5, knew the G3 was functionally extremely similar and took it apart thinking it'd be an easy job to get it together again. An hour and a leatherman later, I finally got the fucking bolt in the right place so I could re-assemble the weapon.
Horus Lupercal
Primarch - Warmaster
Professor
Swingin' on a Star
Deja Vu
Biker Mice from Mars
ET phone home
Floater
Copycat
Registered
I spent a good long while trying to figure out how to do the rifling and the magazine. I went with a 8.9mm land and a 9.03mm groove.
As for the magazine I went with 1mm thick sheet steel, straight instead of curve so its theoretically easier to make, although it might cause feed issues. I'm not sure if the feed system will work effectively.
Still a lot of work needs to be done.
As for the magazine I went with 1mm thick sheet steel, straight instead of curve so its theoretically easier to make, although it might cause feed issues. I'm not sure if the feed system will work effectively.
Still a lot of work needs to be done.
I did not implement an effective "last round bolt hold open" system yet, cuz I'm still experimenting with this design. So I plan to us the magazine follower itself to hold the bolt back. Which means once you pull the mag out, the bolt will be released.
Come to think of it, it could be dangerous, especially when the extractor fails to extract a live round, leaving it in the chamber with the user unaware. If the user is to hold the trigger down and pull the mag out at the same time, it could result in the weapon to misfire.
Come to think of it, it could be dangerous, especially when the extractor fails to extract a live round, leaving it in the chamber with the user unaware. If the user is to hold the trigger down and pull the mag out at the same time, it could result in the weapon to misfire.
So recently I have found out this new, amazing, magical material called *drum noises*: Foam-core
So I bought some, play with it a bit to get used to working with the board thing. Finally, I built the first part out of foam-core, one of the M-LOK pieces... thing of the Mk16 rail. It’s not the best looking but it’s way better than expected.
So I bought some, play with it a bit to get used to working with the board thing. Finally, I built the first part out of foam-core, one of the M-LOK pieces... thing of the Mk16 rail. It’s not the best looking but it’s way better than expected.
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MOTY 2022